This year, I chose to take a vacation to The Peoples Republic of China. I was exited by what I had heard about its history and culture. I read every book I could get a hold of on the subject. I began to memorize every dynasty in order over a span of over 5000 years. I even began to learn a few mandarin phrases. I wanted to find out what the new modern China was like. How had it changed since the door began to open to the West 35 years ago?
Because, like most Americans, I am not allowed to leave my job for more then a brief amount of time, I only had two weeks of travel planned. So, I decided to focus my trip on the two largest cities in the country, Beijing, and Shanghai. While Beijing might be viewed as the political center of the country, kind of like Washington DC, Shanghai is a major metropolitan city much like New York City.
I had heard that China is a country that is changing quickly. The country has certainly become more open to tourist, more friendlily to foreign trade and foreign business. Everywhere I looked, while visiting the major cities I saw foreign companies had made their mark in China. There were Starbucks, Kentucky Fried Chickens, Subways and McDonald's everywhere. Even the Forbidden City had advertisements for American Express as a foreign donor. From what I saw it was not the Chinese taking over America but America taking over China, and in the worst possible way.
I saw two things I did not expect to see in China, obesity and extreme wealth. I saw many Chinese that seemed to be quite wealthy (especially in Shanghai), and extreme poverty. I saw beggars deformed in the most hideous and heart wrenching ways. And I saw that the junk food and fast foods we have exported to the rest of the world beginning to take their toll on the health and welfare of the Chinese people. I saw classicism and greed of course, but I also saw a real love of money and everything that money brings.
The all American capitalist could learn a thing or two about greed from the Chinese Communist Party and the Chinese themselves. while they were often helpful and gracious, they were also after my wallet.
In fact, the only English word I consistently heard was “shopping”. Suggestions to shop came up every where I traveled; while walking down the street, visiting museums and Buddhist Temples, and of course, while traveling to tourist sites. Getting into taxis with cabbies that don’t speak English usually ended with them taking me to the nearest shopping mall (even when I was trying to go somewhere entirely different). I quickly learned the best way to get around China was by bus or subway (Public transportation is excellent in most Chinese cities and well funded). The prices were cheap, and you were able to get to where you wanted to go without being hijacked and taken on a shopping spree.
This is what happened the first time I attempted to hire a driver and tour guide to take me to the Ming Tombs and Great Wall. Instead, I was taken from one shopping location to another. And in the end, only had a few minutes to visit the actual places I had wanted to visit.
I had been warned about culture shock and thought I had prepared myself well for the trip. But the truth is, nothing prepares you for going half way around the world to a place where you cannot communicate effectively with anybody else. I quickly realized I was as helpless as a child, and began to act like a frustrated two year old (much to the amusement and fascination of the locals). I became loud, temperamental, and downright frightening in my rants. I can safely say I now have a new found sympathy for babies as they become frustrated and annoyed at the seemingly well meaning clueless adults around them.
The nine-dollar Barnes And Noble Mandarin phrase book aside, being able to communicate effectively with others was one of the hardest challenges about vacationing in China. If you visit and it takes you more than 3 days to have a complete melt down in the streets consider yourself something of a saint.
My flight to Beijing left Los Angeles at midnight of October 14Th. Crossing the International Time Zone, I landed a day later in Seoul South Korea, at around 4:30 in the morning. And as the plane began its lazy decent I could not help but notice that the North Korean side was completely blacked out. I said a silent prayer hoping our plane wouldn't be shot down during some unforeseen scuffle between the North and South.
At the Seoul airport I took a photo of the mist covered mountains in the North; just as the sun was rising from the east. And realized it was the closest I would probably ever come to North Korea. The picture was sad in its beauty and left me with feelings I am not sure even I understand.
Upon arriving in Beijing, I soon realized two things. First, that most cab drivers had no clue how to find my hotel (despite having printed out the directions in Mandarin from map quest). I often found myself driven in circles for what seemed like hours listening to frustrated cab drivers muttering to themselves in incomprehensible Chinese. And secondly, the Chinese have a very different interpretation of what constitutes a traffic law and how to obey them. You see, where we have traffic laws in the United States, the Chinese have only mild suggestions and little annoyances. You take your life in your own hands if you are crossing a street in Beijing or Shanghai. The annoying, self absorbed, cell phone toting, speed texting, snooty teenager (that Americans specialize in mass producing) is no match for the insane maneuverings of the cars, buses, scooters and bicycles on any given day in any given Chinese city. Remember, you cross the street at your own discretion. God help us all.
I soon discovered that the best way to cross a street in China is to latch on to some unsuspecting native as the crowds pushed forward against oncoming traffic and hope for the best. The odds are fairly good you’ll survive but don’t count on it.
But through it all I came to enjoy my trip to China, yes I really did. You see, by the end of the second week I came to understand that China has a rhythm all its own, and I learned to surrender to it. I let myself soon be moved by the tide of fellow foreigners hustled from one “bargain sale”, to the next. I learned to shop, and enjoy it (something I cannot stand to do in the United States). I bargained down prices with the best of them and bought cheap jewelry and trinkets I shared with friends and co-workers when I returned home. I stopped arguing with taxi drivers but instead thanked them profusely when they dropped me off miles from my destination and dumped me at yet another one of its new trendy western style malls. I learned to go to China and spend money. And realized I had done what I intended to do, I had experienced Chinese culture. I had learned to embrace capitalism. I came to China and I went shopping.
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